Features and Installation

     The first and probably the most difficult tasks of installation is proper placement of fans. Due to the size of the large BIX 2 we opted to make just one hole in our Lian Li PC-75 case for the fan. The second fan will force air out on the opposite side of the radiator but on the left hand side of the radiator. We used some self threaded case screws which protrude through the fan and thread into the radiator. This makes the fan and radiator one piece and keeps the radiator mounted to the case.

     The above picture is ideal with explaining the mounting of the radiator to the case and utilizing 2 120mm fans. The Pabst will run quietly enough to cool the system, whereas the Sunon will be attached to the Nexus fan control to control RPM's for quiet operation. The good part about water cooling is the lack of noise in comparison to the temps achieved. Sure the 2x120mm fans are anything but quiet but they are a nice noise and not a scream like some of the HSF's out there.

     Next up is mounting the CPU and Z-Block to our motherboard. Its best to attach these when the motherboard is outside of the case. That way you can check for obstructions and interferences. Luckily even though the KX18D Pro 2 is relatively new the Danger Den blocks clear everything just fine. The Danger Den workmanship really shows here...

     Be sure to pay attention to the gap required on the AMD kit. If you don't see a gap try and mount the waterblock again. Our block mounted just fine first try. You can check the gap by looking at a bright light in the background which is way its important to have the motherboard outside of the case before you power everything up and fry your CPU if your motherboard is not equipped with C.T.P. (CPU Thermal Protection)

     Next up is mounting our Danger Den provided Tweakmonster ramsinks to our non-ultra FX5900. Using the Arctic Silver Alumina adhesive we spread a small amount on each ram module. Be sure to be able to perform this procedure within at 15-20 min since the AS Alumina cures rather well.

Here are the ramsinks attached and ready for some overclocking!

     10 ft of Tygon tubing was included in our DD kit. This stuff is really nice and holds a lot more pressure than is really needed with water cooling, but as far as I'm concerned overkill is good for piece of mind...

     This is how your graphics card should look when mounted and hooked up. Of course installation on a R9700/9800 series could differ.

     Here is the system after it is filled and bled. It may take a few minutes to bleed all the air out of the system. Note the reservoir installation. One of the plastic DD clips was used on the output end of the GPU block to prevent kinking.

     A better view of the line configuration...Redline Water Wetter and some red UV dye was used along with 100% distilled water. DO NOT use tap water unless you want to kiss your water pump goodbye within a matter of weeks. ClubOC also does not condone the use of switches to turn your water pump off. These pumps are designed for 24/7 operation, and you'll run the risk of getting air in the system if it is turned off, in which case you'll have to remove one of the hoses and bleed it again, which can be messy when your system is together.

     After some feedback we came to the conclusion that pink UV dye just won't work, so we changed it to blue...One of the staff mentioned a underwater horror movie...